Santiago

After dinner last night we are all back at the albergue, each doing our own thing! A fellow came in and had a bottle of wine. I noticed him but didn't pay alot of attention.  He was using a bowl as a glass and finished the wine in short order and went upstairs. He added quite a bit of excitement to the place as he banged his head and fell out of bed a couple of times! :-) Anyway by the time I headed to bed he was sound asleep. More adventures during the night though ... the fellow was clearly disoriented; he ended up downstairs in the sitting area, then in a different dorm, then tried to get in the wrong bunk (thank goodness not mine). :-) Saw him a few times this morning and he just greeted us and carried on!

Today started off wet but eventually sunny and stayed that way until we reached Santiago, got our paperwork sorted out and found a bed. Then rain! We headed out but first stopped for coffee and a crossiant. Tim from Texas joined us at the start of  the day! Interesting fellow... car dealer dude in Texas, 2 kids, married, walking for the challenge and to show his kids that they could set a goal at any age and complete it!  He set a pretty aggressive pace right from the start and although I was sweating big time I kept up! We finished almost 9km by almost 10am! I felt great although my pack seemed way heavier today. My book says that the last day into Santiago was relatively flat... not so! There were some big hills! We stopped for ice cream and a credential stamp and then headed up a big hill! Couldn't really complain though as the ice cream was covered in chocolate and almonds and I took it slow! :-)

The path today was busy! Lots of familiar faces and some folks who were just in a big hurry! Tim kicked up his pace and left us behind and we carried on. Through villages and country lanes we finally reached a little cafe - I was definitely in need of a sit down!:-) We went in and got our drinks and then listened to an English lady give the owner trouble over his attitude! Once all the noise had settled down and the English folks had left, the owner dude showed us me on the map where we were and talked about the tradition of putting coins on the stone walls in a house or in this case the cafe. He was nice to me/us!:-)

We got our gear back on and started off again! Now we knew we had approx. 4km to Monte do Gozo and then another 5km to Santiago.We reached Monte do Gozo about 12, and stopped for a bit of a break. Lots of folks here as this was a stop for the tour buses!  Not far out of Monte do Gozo we saw a sign that said 4.7km to Santiago (apparently this means to the cathedral).

Gosh this was a long 4.7 km! Anticipation a factor for sure, along with tons of pavement walking and tons of up and down! We reach the outskirts of the city and walk along cobblestone streets which sometimes were narrow and then finally into the city proper. Lots of traffic but not a lot of knapsacks in sight! The signage was pretty clear though so on we went. We see the steeples eventually and make our way to the back/side of the cathedral. I ask another pilgrim, just to be sure, and we were right around the corner! We sat for a minute and then decided to line up for our certificate and stamps so that it was done. We got directions, rounded the corner and there was the plaza. I was actually shocked as there were hardly any pilgrims or people in the plaza! All of the info that I had read or heard led me to believe that there would be masses of people milling about. We took pictures and then headed to the pilgrim office. Again, I was surprised as the line up was maybe 30-40 pilgrims deep, definitely not the hundreds or thousands that I anticipated! I/we stood in line and chatted. The fellow in front of me was from England and had walked about 100km with his wife and a group. His adventures were quite different from mine as they stayed in 4/5 star hotels, one with a pool, drank wine and ate great food! Nice fellow! As we waited, Tim came down the stairs certificate in hand, we wished each other well and away he went! Finally my turn! Got my stamps, and my certificate with my name in Latin!  It was around 2pm.

We now needed to find beds! Chris from Ireland had recommended Hotel Suso so we went looking, Were approached 3 different times to try an albergue, a pension and a hostal. We decided to check out a hotel which was way to much money, and they gave us the directions to Suso!  Very close and I have my own room, tiny but who cares  - the door locks!:-)

After dumping our gear and cleaning up we found great tapas! We snacked and then went exploring! Have to go to the cathedral and the plaza, etc! The girls and I separated ways after agreeing to meet at 8 at our hotel and then we would go for dinner! I checked out the church, put my hands on the pillars where many had before me and took photos of the huge incense burner! I also explored the  Museum and the strolled to find water for tomorrow! I was a little further from the hostal than I had planned and of coursethen the rain came! No boots on, just flip flops and definitely a challenge walking - so slippery! Anyway, made it back to the albergue without wiping out! :-)

Meet Pam and Terry and they have brought along Brigitte from Colorado! Interesting lady - retired, travelling the world and will eventually go to their family vineyard and winery in California and work at increasing their wine production. She just completed the Camino  and has 4 days to wait for her husband and then they are off to Turkey!  Dinner was so much fun and the latest I have been up since starting the Camino. We ate more but different tapas, drank wine and then changed restaurants and had more wine! We met folks from Santiago and Mexico and one young lady who had great memories of a long ago trip to Victoria's Minature World!

We said our goodbyes and I was in my room at 12:30!

Tomorrow the journey home! :-)

Aruza To Arca

Back at the albetgue, met an Irish fellow from Belfast. Had a good chat with him  and then the girls were ready. Our plan was to find a grocery store and have dinnner at the albergue. It was not to be! Late Sat. afternoon, stores are closed, so restaurant it is!:-) We went to the restaurant attached to our albergue! Pizza, french fries, crappy glass of wine and a beer = great dinner!:-) Chatted to an Irish couple and then found our beds.  Last saw the time at 8pm.

Not a great sleep last night! Sat. night in the big town, makes for a lot of strange noises!  At least the room door had a lock! :-) I was awake early, but as there was no where to go quietly, stayed put. We are all up and ready, found coffee and all is good!

We had walked about a block down a side street to get to the main road, we all were talking when Pam started laughing... apparently I say "yah, yah yah" a lot! :-) We laughed our heads off and kept walking!:-) To bad we had not gone a little further into town.. very pleasant! And to think we stayed in the "ugly outskirts" according to my book! :-) Soon we walked off of the main road onto dirt tracks! Walked in cloud and mist, hills but not near as bad as previous days! Eventually rain, no rain, sunny patches and then (dang it!) pouring rain!

Finally a little village with a cafe! An omlette and the best cafe con leche to date, and I am good to go! We walk through wooded areas, small roads, through hamlets and cross the highway a couple of times. Now it is really raining!

We reach a little town called Brea and I am soooooooo ready for a sit down and something to drink! Why does my knapsack feel heavier in the rain? I have a rain cover so the contents are dry! Anyway a cup of tea will fix me up! We find a table and join three Irish ladies. Chat for a bit and dry out!  Then a group of guys came into the cafe and said they needed help! We all were "what do you need?". One fellow said that it was his mom's birthday (she is Canadian and lives in Texas) and he would like it if we could all sing Happy Bithday to her! Of course we could! :-) So this fellow videos the folks in the cafe belting out Happy Birthday to Helen in Texas! Fun! :-) Tim from Texas, good heart!

We head out again and are in Rua, when there is Alex! We chat to him and tell him that our goal is Arca. He says "2km away! Keep going, you will come to a junction, go left, up the hill", I think "are you kidding me? Not another hill!" He also suggests we go into the tourism office and get the map for Santiago. So we do!  We hear others talking about booking reservations, rooms are full, so we try! The fellow in the office tries to call a few places for us -no luck! He tells us to go 200m to Aviro and they will have rooms! So we do.

This place wants 50 € for a room for 2. It was a setup with a sitting room and kitchen. I suppose I could of slept on the couch, but..... Anyway, said to the girls that I chose to continue on, up to them what they wanted to do. I gave them space and walked out to the road. They decided to go on ahead as well.

Uphill into Arca!  We check out a pension.. 1 room for 2 people, 55€, hmmmmmmm. Moving along!  I recognized a young couple that stayed in the same place as us last night, they said they were staying at albergue edreira, we saw the signs and headed that way. A fellow caught up to us and it was Tim from the cafe earlier. We followed the signs and 10€ for a bed. Clean, newish - am good!

After cleaning up and waiting for the rain to let up, the four of us headed for food. For me, melon and spanish ham, fish and chips and beer.

Quiet night! Santiago here I come!

Azura - Day 26

Crazy night last night! We found beer, snack food and then dinner. Dinner was dismal! Looked like a good possibility, but alas no. It was pouring, thunder and lightening and we are off to find the grocery store! Found the yogurt, bananas and red wine!  :-) Headed back to the albergue and found the kitchen; lots of stories and giggling! Around 6ish head for quiet time and bed! There are 2 new fellows in our room. One sound a sleep in the bunk over mine and the other getting his bed ready.

I woke up with a start to my bed moving! The fellow on the top bunk had decided that it was time to put sheets on his bed (even though everyone else was asleep and the room dark) and was having difficulty! After lots of noise, banging, and him sighing heavily he decided it was a good idea to take his mattress off! Geez Louise! Anyway, I had had enough and got up and helped him! He kept saying "sheets don't fit", My patience was leaving me! I was saying "oh yes they will!", as each of us are putting the corners of the sheets on the dang mattress while holding it off of the floor! What a gong show! :-) Finally it is done, he thanks me and goes to bed! Pam (from Montana) is killing herself laughing! It was 8:36pm.

Heard the rain in the night and was so hoping we would have a break tomorrow! Am up at 6:30, albergue is pretty quiet. My clothes are still wet so find the dryer!  After a slow start we are  finally off! Wet start to the day, warm though! Walked through pretty countryside, found a cafe, warm coffee!:-) A little further on a road stand selling fruit, even raspberries! 1€ for approx. 1/2 cup! Carried on! Up hills, down hills, more uphill! Rain stopped, sky is still cloudy although a tiny bit of blue!  The walk is long for me today! It could be my lack of sleep last night! :-)

Am walking with the US girls, a pilgrim from Vermont, and 4 from Spain. We stop and get water at a tiny cafe at the bottom of a hill. The path has been along a paved road (am not liking the walking on pavement bit) and we now have a big hill and then a steady incline into Arzua! We keep walking and after winding past some nice looking homes we are now in suburbia. It is starting to rain again and we opt to find a bed! The first albergue and pension we find are full! The second has beds, so a quick discussion and Montana, Idaho and I are sharing a room with three beds! Quite the maze to get to our room, up stairs, across a terrace, through a restaurant, out the front door, in the door right next and up,more stairs! Shower, laundry, nap now off to find food. Find a restaurant, have some boring soup and bread. It rained and rained, stopped long enough to look for a grocery store - closed and get back under a roof!  Back at the albergue.

No pictures today!

Airexe to Melide

Intersting day all around! Up early, alarms, double alarms, am not sure why folks set them! They are up with the crack of dawn anyway! :-)

Find the kitchen and tea and chat to 2 spanish fellows, of course Ireland Chris! , another couple from Spain, and a few Germans who are in a hurry!:-) Wait for light! It has rained during the night has stopped now but is dark dark dark!  Chris is ready to go and then asked the time; 6:09 by my clock! :-) We chat for a bit and he leaves. .....peace!  :-)

Soon all start moving, and it is time to get going! I tag with the girls again, we leave at 7:30ish.:-) It is stupid dark! I guess I tried to dare the weather, I have my gear but of course am not ready! Have to stop qnd put my tablet in plastic, my rain coat on, hat on, etc. I was smart enough to put the rain cover on my knapsack before we left but that was about it! Idiot! :-)

Anyway we walked in pouring rain pretty much  for the next couple of hours. Sooo much fun! :-( We reach Palas de Rei and stop at a cafe to dry out and fuel up! Saw some familiar face some I haadn't seen for a few days! As we are leaving three girls from the school group were in front of singing, so the three of us joined in and had a great round of supercalifragilistic (sp)! And the rain comes back! We walk with the rain downhill, along side some mini raging rivers, catch up with more students, more students catch up with us and on we go. We do catch up with a group that is being escorted by Alex who we met yesterday. We do see him at one point as well, nice and dry under a big umbrella waiting for his clients! :-)

We reach a 2nd cafe that has set up a huge tent outside, get the largest coffee I could and dry out a bit. We chat to a girl from Sweden who has been to Vancouver, is escorting a group of older folks and had great stories! She told us that she was picking up garbage along the path a few days ago and an old man thanked her, he then gave her a beautifully carved walking stick and asked her to take it to Santiago for him. He said that he was too old to go to Santiago and would be grateful! So Catherine from Sweden is doing just that - taking the walking stick to Santiago!

It is pouring, however we decide to continue on, suit up and away we go! Not too far and then a bit of sunshine and a lady selling bananas! Yippee! Terri and Pam start singing children's songs which I had forgotten about! That sure helped the long downhill slog! We reached the outskirts of Melide and walked about 4km along a gravel trail, came out on a cute little street and there was Alex! No umbrella this time! He gave us directions to the centre of town and some room choices. Away we went! Finally, albergues, stores, cafes, etc. We find an albergue - new, clean, noisy and in an old building. The staircase is amazing! Six bunks and I have a bottom bunk! Yay!

Laundry,  warm, dry clothes and food!

Good day but long! No pictures though!

Portomarin to Aixexe

Last night I was back in my bed reading and relaxing. This albergue was part of the "Red Alebergue" group. The first one of this group was in Logrono where the young lady stored our bags early and helped the girl from Germany with the huge blister problem. Anyway this is the second one affliated with this group that I have stayed with. This dorm had 132 beds of which there were about 20 beds taken. At about 6 give or take I was reading on my bed when there was a bit of noise, voices and laughter. Then louder and louder, and then WOW!  :-)  Soon it was apparent that there was a school group of young women and apparently they were staying here! So much for nap time!  Too funny as I was given what I thought was strict  dorm nstructions, boots outside, laundry outside, quiet, kitchen details,  no lights on before 7am, lights automatically out at 11:00, no noise after 11:00, etc., etc.  Anyway, it was just young voices, laughter,  louder, softer, louder, softer and I soooo needed a nap! After A bit they settled down and I napped!  Woke up at 10:15, lights went off at 11:00 and so did the chatter! :-)

Was awake early so snuck out to the common area to check email. There were already two ladies there in a bit of a fuss as there was the most annoying alarm like noise coming from the direction of the leg massage unit. Too early for me, I went to the furthest spot away from the noise! Anyway, after a very few minutes, one lady went over and checked and then came over and said that someone had plugged their phone in and it was their alarm!  It is a Camino rule that you don't touch another pilgrim's stuff, hence she left it. We listened to it for about 20 minutes or so more. One of the two teachers for the girls, who I had met earlier wearing her fluffy bathrobe (obviously not carrying her bag! ) finally came and shut it off, apologizing profusely! :-)

This morning was really foggy, low too! Hmmmmm not too hard of a decision to stay put until light and check the fog then. In the meantime, Idaho aka Terri got up and we chatted. I asked her if she minded if I joined her and Montana aka Pam until we were clear of the long dark path which apparently went for several km according to my book! No problem! :-) I did go out check the weather about 7:15ish and a couple from Ireland said that I was welcome to walk with them! Too dark for me, thanked them and I waited for the girls!

I had been concerned since reading my book yesterday about having to cross a "rickety" footbridge first thing, so dragged out my book and then suggested that we go back over the bridge we came across on yesterday and catch the trail from there. All agreed and we headed off! Down the lane, down 60 steps and across the bridge,  only to find out wrong bridge! The girls were great! We had a good giggle then headed back to the bottom of the steps, then down the road and across the "right" bridge! The "rickety" footbridge was to our right and was closes! All that worry for nothing!

The girls are my age and we passed the time in lively conversation! Funny enough, we were not far out of Portomarin when a young woman suddenly appeared and asked us for a donation! The 7.5/8 km (depending on whose book) passed quickly enough, although I have to say that I was tired this morning! We even passed through a part of the camino that was famous as an open air brothel in the 12th century!  We stopped for a snack at a picnic area,  reached a cafe and coffee in Ganzor, and moseyed on. Was absolutely not thrilled with any of the hills we found today! At one point had to climb and wind around and over the highway which was ugly! Found another cafe in Ventas de Naron where a cold coke was amazing!:-)

We travelled through a few small hamlets/villages and finally after 20km decided to find a bed.  Chris from Ireland greeted us and pointed us to where he was staying  and the albergue we were looking at, 18 beds, 6 were taken!  Six euros for a bed, shower and laundry. Restaurant across the road. Perfect!

Cleaned up and found a beer. Chatted to Chris and a young man Alex from th US. He has his own tour business here. The group he had today was 9 folks from Colorado; who would walk a few kmand then he would take them and their luggage in the support vehicle  to their hotel at night. Very interesting young man! Pam and Terri joined us and we girls decided on food! Yay!  I had the pilgrim's dinner and a side of amazing octopus! Am learning that Galicia, this region of Spain are famous for their octopus recipes! Two glasses of red wine and a nap was in order!:-)

Cute little village! Albergue's hostess is Maria, She is busy knitting in the corner and visiting with whoever couls speak Spanish! :-)

Good day!

Day 24 Leaving Sarria

Yesterday I ran into Conrad from Germany who I have not seen since Zubiri! He was the young fellow that had walked 43km on his first day which included going over the mountain! When I met him last he was weary, chatty and positive and after eating he was off to soak his feet in the river! I saw him as I started to wander, he was in the park area next to the church. I teased him about the amount of daily km and he said that he was averaging about 36km a day. He did do a 44km but only once! :-) Anyway, chatted for a bit and carried on around the corner and found Irish Chris sitting at a bar/cafe. His story earlier yesterday was that he had a phone call from his girlfriend in Berlin who told him that her brother was in Sarria. So he opted for the bus yesterday am and said they would carry on to Portomarin. Blarney!:-) Anyway, his story! :-) Said with him for a bit and a fellow from Denmark The next table had Tomas from Boston who was eating a cheeseburger, we chatted, I copied, added fries, and am pretty sure that made us best friends! :-) The guy is extra large, a lawyer, loud, funny, had an entourage with him!

After my burger and beer I went exploring, first down those 60 sixty steps! Checked out an outdoor store which was crazy expensive and had limited stock, and then went looking for the grocery store. Had not gotten too far when rain started, hmmmmmmm laundry was outside! Back I go up 60 blinkin steps, pull in my laundry and then decided I will pay the 4€ for breakfast rather than going again! Found a quiet corner and then bed!

Great snooze last night! Woke up this am at 7:15, roommates are cyclists so everyone slept in! No biking in the dark!:-) For me, a great start! No worries about not seeing!  Extra bonus- warm and zero rain! :-)  After coffee and fuel head out, gentle incline through town and then a crazy hill! Apparently, my coffee had not yet kicked in!  Sweater off and now the walk is great! Through fields and shady lanes, throug hamlets and villages and farm yards. I meet Montana and Idaho and we chat for a bit, (these girls found my Canadian flag bandana yesterday and then found me in Sarria to give it to me!) and I carry on!

A fellow I keep seeing catches up to me and we start chatting. He is French, from near Toulouse (sp), his backpack is bigger than me,  his name is John Vladimir (not the correct spelling!), he is walking to help him with something with his girlfriend (I didn't get all of the story), this is his 7th or 8th Camino, he is asking for food, coffee and milk along the way, and he needs a shower!  My caution radar was going off big time! Then he said he was going to Santiago to sell some natural drugs to the pilgrims! He then told me to be careful cause I didn't know what was around the corner! Hmmm, found some other pilgrims and  left him getting a coffee at a donation stand and then ran into him again when I stopped for coffee at a cafe! Found some others to walk with, haven't seen him for the rest of the day! Thank goodness!

I met a lady from New Zealand that started walking 50 days ago in France! She  was sitting with another lady from Australia. They both were jaded (their words) over this last bit, nothing new to see, same food, etc. Anyway, we chatted for a bit and then I was on my way, Gosh today was long! So many long downhills and so much pavement!  Am ready for some dirt paths! Second time I have been approached by women asking for a donation to help out deaf folks. The donation sheet is on a clipboard printed in Spanish and English and both times there were some names signed up. I didn't see any dollar amounts but I looked quickly and really did not stop. Anyway, I said no thanks and moved on.

Finally a sign that Portomarin was 3km away! Kept going and it is pretty much downhill on pavement! I pass a fellow that is going down sideways and suck it up! Finally the bridge and once across 50 blinkin steps! Up I go, find the albergue and a beer! It is 1:30pm.

After a bit of a rest and of course laundry! I have a sandwich at the albergue and decide I should explore a bit. This town is high on a hill having been moved in 1964 after the river was dammed. Found the town centre, naturally uphill :-), and wandered. One fellow I met at the table yesterday with Tomas from Boston, greeted me and we chatted a bit. The lady sitting with him I recognized as well. She told me to be careful of that John Vladimir dude and the two ladies asking for donations. So we compared stories and apparently the two donation ladies robbed some folks earlier today. Hmmmmm, tomorrow I will make sure I am with others! 

Back to the albergue, reading and sleep!:-)

Day 2O Tricastela

I thought last night was going to be chilly so had both sleeping bags liners, socks and an extra sweater. Good thing as I needed them all! This morning at 6, it is windy but still dark. Have found the kitchen and am having coffee to warm up! I will wear more layers when I leave this morning including socks for mitts (I forgot to bring gloves so will use my spare socks :-))

Am now in the province where Santiago is located and am coming up to Sarria.

Left this morning in the dark, tried to time my departure to follow 2 French couples I met yesterday. Fooled me though as they went for breaky. Much to dark for me so I hung out, chatted to a fellow from El Salvador via Florida ad checked my book.  I watched a few pilgrims leave and decided to follow. One thing I did not do last night was check out the route leaving town while it was still light. We climbed a smallish hill, it was stupid dark, two girls in front of me with a light and others up ahead. I stopped to adjust my pack and a fellow came back down the path and said wrong way, no markers. Hmmmmmm! :-) I turned around back to the albergue while the other girls carried on. Almost back at the albergue and then I saw the arrow! A let a few folks go ahead and then I followed! More  yellow arrows so am all good!

Beautiful sunrise this morning. Definitely going to be a hot day! Passed another memorial for a fallen pilgrim.  Path curved downhill until we met a gravel road, big enough for one vehicle so must be a road!  Took off my jacket after not too long and then started climbing! We climbed to the top of Alto de San Roque. There is a statue of a wind battered pilgrim here marking the pass!  Got rid of the long pants there and took some photos. It was 8:30.

Really pleasant walk, warm, nice breeze, I reach Hospital da Condesa and stop for coffee. The bar/cafe had a huge old loom inside, guess it is antique tons of dust on it! :-) Sat outside watching pilgrims coming and going and listening to the crowing competition!

More climbing, finally pass Alto do Poio The path winds through tiny communities, sometimes it seems we are passing through somebody' s farm yard! Have to move out of the way twice for cows to go by. Carry on downhill over rough, stoney tracks and then more downhill! Arrive at Filloval where I find the cafe and down a water and a coke! It is crazy hot!

Keep going  more downhill and reach the municipal albergue on the outside of town. Find a bed, shower, do laundry and am off to find food!

Found a grocery store that is closed (siesta time) and finally a bar. Have omlette, ham, salad and fries and a beer. Awesome! Chris from Ireland came and sat with me for a bit.

Am off to find the open grocery store for tomorrow's supplies, then reading and sleeping!

Sarria

Today's walk was pretty darn spectacular! :-) My original plan was to go to Sarria vua San Xil, less km and a more direct route. Big climb apparently early in the hike but I was ready for it! However, I was awake early after a freezing night! In fact all 4 of us sharing the room were awake at 3 putting on more layers! It was cold! Up, packed and ready well before 7. The albergue was across a field from the road and cafes,  so I followed some other pilgrims and found the cafe.After fuelling up started to head out. It was dark, no moon or stars, cloudy. Passed by Chris from Ireland and two other fellows waiting for the bus to Sarria. Stopped and chatted until their bus arrived and then started walking further through the village. I actually dawdled! :-) Kept waiting for light! Anyway after a bit, found the crossroads,  and went left. Along a highway, which definitely made walking easier as I could see the white line! There were 5 other pilgrims walking along as well. After awhile it struck me that I was walking along the side of a road which was not in the route that I had planned.Hmmmmmmm.... Started using my flashlight to read the highway signs and realized that I am on the way to Samos, the longer route to Sarria. I was supposed to turn right at the crossroads! Too late now, am not going back so carry on!

Once daylight had arrived, the scenery was amazing. The path along the side of the road was pleasant and veered off into park like areas. At one point, the fellow in front of me stopped and picked something up, his wife joined himand when I approached he held up one of his hiking poles and said kaput! I walked further, stopped to take off my jacket. They asked if I had a needle, I gave them one of my safety pins and he fixed his pole!:-)

A while later a joined Montana and Idaho for a bit, two nice ladies loving their walk. Chatted for a bit and then carried on. Passed through lots of farmland, mini roads sided by high walls, a few villages and like yesterday what seemed to be farm yards. Didn't have to move for cows today, lots of cats and kittens, dogs and occasionally sheep and goats. Walked on and off with a fellow from Germany. We reach Samos and I take his picture with the 6th century monastary in the background! I find a cafe and a coffee, and it is 9:55. Chatted to a fellow from Switzerland that I keep seeing. After a bit of a rest, fuel and adjusting the pack am ready to go.

I walked through the town, stopped and took a picture of the mandatory pilgrim statue and carried on. About 3km or so turned off on a small semi paved road and started to climb! The hill seemed endless. I stopped for a break and pilgrims on horses passed me by. Carried on uphill and then the path changed.It wove along a heavily treed lane, sometimes with walls and sometimes without. Up and down more hills, through small hamlets and then down a couple of steep, rocky paths.  A fellow overtook me and I decided it would be wise to keep him in sight, pretty isolated stretch of probably 6 or km. Anyway, I did and we were in Calvor at 12:30. I was crazy hot! Chatted to 5 folks from Ecuador and a young couple from Denmark. I stopped for coke and water.

Headed out again and then the paths merged with folks from the San Xil route. People and 3km or so from Sarria! See the sign for Sarria, walk through suburbs, find the tourism office and get my directions checked!:-) Walk to the centre of town, the albergue I am looking for is on the other side of the church. Easy! Not! The map does not show hills, more hills, curved roads, more hills and then 60, yup sixty stairs to the street where the church and albergue are located.

Find my bed, chores, food and nap!

My legs are telling me today was long- 26km long! :-)

Big Climb is done! Am in O Cebreiro!

Well, no excuse, just plain forgot! Typed yesterday's message and did not have the correct spelling of the various towns, and did not check this am. Bottom line is I still am in Spain! :-)

Left Vega de Valcarce this morning late! I slept from 9 last night intil 7:45 this morning! Was organized to meet Sandra at the bakery; once there and having checked my email, I had plenty of time as Sandra had sent a note that she was starting her walk at 7:30.  So after a coffee leche I headed out, wound my way through Vega de Valcarce and walked/chatted with a Dutch girl. Very pleasant! She talked about how running water motivates her and how hungry she is! She feels good though eating nuts, dried fruit and goat cheese. We walked for a bit and then she paused and I carried on! After a bit the path/road reached Las Herrerias. I stopped for a grande coffee leche and to warm my hands! After warming up carried on and there was the Dutch girl eating a sandwich, fruit and not sure what else! :-)  A little further was a sign saying "Horses to O Cebreiro". I paused and thought this would be fun! Shook it off though and passed by!  Walked on and now it is steep, steeper, steepest! As in holy crow, I will fall backwards! Anyway, I did not! Kept climbing and the horses with pilgrims  went by!  Followed the horse tracks and deposits and finally made it to La Faba! Pretty little village, looked for the albergues, found a few, everything really quiet! Found the fountain, watered up, and checked the time! It was only 10:30, so decided to keep going! Gradual incline through the village and then holy crap! Uphill again, and again and again! The horses were long gone and I kept walking and walking. I look down and there was 10€! Funny enough I had said to Sandra earlier in our trip that I was finding lots of money as in coins. Then bang! My room for tonight paid for! Connection?

Finally a tiny village called Laguna de Castilla! Tiny! There was a bar/cafe open but I had water and snacks so carried on! More uphill, there were a few other walkers but mostly quiet. After about a km found the stone marker saying that I had passed into Galicia! I kept walking and up ahead (finally) a ton of cars parked in an area overlooking the path/view! So up I went and bang there was O Cebreiro and the church! Need to find WIFI to communicate with Sandra, however; as the village was packed with people I thought it wise to find a bed first. Thought it a good idea to do the descent fresh! :-) So through the village (as in keep climbing) , asked two old men on their way to church, I assume! Albergue was up a smallish hill and then a line up!:-) So it was 12:00ish, found a spot in the line, albergue would be open at 1. I wait, chat with Chris from Ireland, Chris from Brazil, and a crowd of French couples! Finally open, got my bed! So now to find wifi and sent Sandra my location. Well that is not easy! Weak signals, lots of folks having trouble! Kind of strange that here we all are, on a pilgrimage, in beautiful scenery and the question you hear most often "have you found wifi?"

Anyway find wifi, send the message after muliple tries. It is 5:20pm on Sunday evening. I found a shop, augmented my cheese and soup and got breaky fixings. Backed to the albergue, found the kitchen and dinner!

Will go and find wifi to see where Sandra is shortly. Hopefully we will connect soon! We are coming up to the 100km mark before Santiago!

On my way back to my dorm heard music coming from a different bar/cafe. Stopped to have a look and there was a lady playng a big drum,  a man playing a smaller drum and a man playing the bagpipes! Hung out for a bit and enjoyed and then found my bed!

On the Road Again!

Today headed out on my own as Sandra was still recovering! My intention was to take the scenic route out of Villafrank, however, I misjudged the darkness and rethought the plan!

The walk out of the town was very pretty, cobbled streets, old houses; in parts a little rundown,in others quaint. Had to search a couple of times for the yellow arrows but found the way. Walked over the Rio on a long bridge and then the path splits. So rather than taking the "high" route I followed a lone pilgrim on the"road" route. Walked beside the river along the edge of the roadway. The river was basically in a gorge way down there. Interestingly the Camino path was tarmac painted yellow. Sooo once I found the right direction, "I was following the yellow brick road", sort of! :-) The path was winding and the road signs showed cars tipping if they did not go slow.  Not to many walkers yet and not a cyclist for at least 30 minutes.

After about 5km I came to a little town called Pere, had caught up to a bunch of pilgrims and met Canada, Germany, Austria. These three had decided three days ago to travel together as all of them were injured and were visiting the medical clinics. Feet were their number one problem! Chatted for a bit, had the mandatory grande cafe leche and headed off! Not far out of the town I caught up with a group that included a lady from our dorm last night. She too had foot issues and was planning to stay in a hotel to rest today, however, everything was booked. So she sent her bag ahead and was wearing sandals heading to the next bed!

I walked with her a bit and then kicked it up a notch! Put my tunes on and found a good pace! I came to the turnoff to go to the town to meet Sandra and decided to keep going! It was only 9:15! :-) The path eventually turned off the roadway and we went through a few hamlets, not much happening in any of them! Old buildings and quiet streets! After a bit we rejoined the roadway and this part of the path still had the road on the right and the river on the left. The difference now was that the river was no longer in a gorge, it had fields with sheep and mountain goats on the opposite side. There was a fellow with a pack and two huge plastic bags and he was busy picking up bottles and cans, I spoke to him and then he climbed the fence, I guess to get more bottles! A huge dog maybe a mastiff cross came barrelling out of no where, barking its head off! The walkers, me included, stopped in our tracks and watched! The sheep and goats took off away from us making lots of noise and ringing their bells and the dog kept coming and now the guy starts yelling (have no idea what he was saying). It was a slow motion movie! The end result was the guy climbed the fence before the dog got him and the dog protected his herd! I wanted to clap! Everyone did their part! I walked away laughing!:-)

So tunes and a good pace!  Walked through two more small hamlets and then a long approach to Vega de.  Overtook a guy from England and a guy from Portugal an they cracked me up. The shorter dude whined "how much further?" and the English dude snaps "500 blinkin metres", of course I laughed and then we all did! Pretty funny!

Reached the town at 11:30ish, had my bed organized by 12! Shower, beer, explore in that order! :-) Found a pub and a COLD beer, sat at the bar and chatted to the owner. While I was there a young lady came in with a fish in a styrofoam box, freshly caught as it was still moving! The old guy (owner) paid her 10€ for it and it didn't look very big to me! Anyway, we started to talk about fish, then salmon, about "big" fish and the old guy said he catches big salmon in the river and pointed! His wife rolled her eyes and we had a good laugh! Found the grocery store, chores, siesta now dinner!

I decided to go back to to the same place for dinner, and got there about 5:45. There was another guy at the door with his phone, I asked about food and after a minute this guy comes over has me speak my question into his phone, then he hands the phone to the oldnguy, he reads it, I get wine, a table and dinner! Sweet!
Had dinner, chattedmto amcouple from New Zealand,  a fellownfrom Germany and some women from Toronto!

Good day!

Villafranca del Bierzo

Today was quite fun! A dark walk initially but probably only 2km or so. Lots of stars and a full moon. Found the cutest cafe, part of a winery, huge pizza ovens and  a grande cafe leche! Had my food stash so paid for the coffee and ate my groceries!:-)

We took the scenic route, through vineyards and rolling (steepish) hills. Not crazy hills, that's coming up! Chatted and wandered - the theme of today! We did watch a grape picker at work!  The machine/tractor runs on each side of the vines, shaking the grapes off, at the end of the row there is a mini dump truck wating to take the grapes away.  Pretty interesting watching the driver trying to manipulate around corners!  Met some folks from France, saw Denmark again and met some new Ireland, Texas, and France folks. Very pretty scenery, needed some jazz in the background and a glass of wine! Perfect!  Probably would have been a great idea to lose the backpack and shower too! :-)

It took us a longish time to actually get to the hub of the village - wander, chat, wander, came across a cafe with a lot of backpacks outside! Met a fellow from New Zealand who declared this cafe had the best breakfast and lunch! Then he said he did not really know! :-)  Good giggle!

Found our albergue but we are too early! So.... hard decision, but we decided beer and food! :-) Found a great little place; good food and a pretty plaza. I have to confess though that after a huge omlette, fries and beer,  my dinner budget looks like soup! :-)

Found our beds in a building which kind of resembles a school. After laundy and sorting of gear went exploring the abergue's grounds. Overgrown soccer fields, ramshackle basketball court, religious monuments tucked here and there.  Also looks like there were other buildings attached but only foundations and floors are left. We were told that the albergue has been open only two months, I think it is a good use of an empty building!

Explored the town a bit and then called it a day!

Well that was the plan! :-) However, Sandra managed to get a stomach bugl So after a bit of time in the dorm, we headed to the medical clinic. After fluids and medicine back to the albergue at 10:45ish. No sleep yet though as there is some sort of discussion going on in Spanish with a bunch of loud men! An hour later, finally peace!

Tomorrow will be an interesting day!

Day 17 Cacabelos

Last night we got talking to one of our room mates, she is from the UK and looks like Minnie Driver! :-)  A spunky young lady, we had a good giggle over ladder climbing to the top bunk! I am absolutely confident that I will never manage those crazy things without saying at least once "shit" as the dang thing tips and just about sends me flying! In the dark,  of course, it is always way more fun!

Woke up in the night to a concert of snoring coming from the kitchen/common area, Albergue beds were full so folks were sleeping on mats on the floor. Courtyard was full of mats as well.  Interesting because this albergue sleeps 175 in beds, the talk was another 100 were sleeping on temporary beds.

We left this morning around 7:30 or so. Our original plan was to keep today and tomorrow shorter days as we have a one more climb to do. The walk through Ponferrada took us through the old town, past the castle, and down some winding narrow streets. We tackled a bunch of stairs, then through more narrow streets.  There is lots of new construction as well as renovation projects. Seems to be a lot of projects where the old facade is being kept on new buildings, trying to keep the character of old.  It was pretty and quiet!  At one point we were walking through an area of huge houses, walled/fenced and gated.  Tjhe path then took us past an old small church and to a corner where there was an old building and a monument of some sort with a cross on it. Sandra stopped to take a picture and noticed a knife there. We supposed that someone must have stopped for a break and left it. She put it back on the step and we were about to carry on when the two fellows walking behind us heard us and one of them folded the knife up and put it in his pack. We must have all been hungry as the conversation went from wow a knife, to roast chicken and fries, to these two guys with a knife becoming hunters and finding lunch! Had a good laugh and then carried on.

We passed through Columbrianos, Fuentes Nuevas, Campaonaraya mostly walking in vineyards. Passed an older fellow selling fruit - grapes, melon, something else which I did not decipher! We stopped for coffee three  times which helped. I started today tired so needed the push! Chatted to the folks from London Ontario and then new folks from Halifax and various folks from Quebec. Stopped at a local bodeaga but did not sample any wines!:-( Further along a fellow was set up selling wooden scallop shells that he had carved and was doing a lively business. I chose to keep my euros  and we walked on.  Finally  Cacabelos.! We walked through the town and found the albergue.

The albergue is basic, no kitchen, hard benches for relaxing but has the coolest two bed cubbyholes for sleeping! I think it will be a chilly nite though as the rooms are stone and wood, so layering up for bed! :-)

We decided to wander in the town, found an old olive press which was massive!  Finally found a place with an awesome pan of paella! I killed mine! No sharing!  :-) We found the supermarket and  stocked up for tomorrow!

Bed! :-)

Ponferrada

I forgot to mention yesterday, that while walking I saw various song lyrics written on sign posts, etc.  referencing the path. The last one I saw was "Coming down, is the hardest thing!" - Tom Petty" :-) No Kidding! :-)

We were up and the dorm moving fairly early, got downstairs and everything was dark - no coffee! We waited a bit as it was too dark to walk, and the albergue's resturant lights came on. Yay coffee! We had coffee with Timmy from Ireland and then headed out.

The path is downhill and at first gentle and beside the road, then it changed. Steep downhill, goat track size  in some spots, lots of rocks and shale! Finally get to flat ground at Molinaseca. Thank you Jude for the use of your poles!:-) We arrived about10:30 or so and found coffee and empanada!

A rather boring walk through the town along side the road,  up a grade that seemed endless,  eventually we came to a Camino path sign which was having us turn away from the highway and enter the city after passing through a little village and walking some country roads. The other option was to stick to the highway.  I was not keen about the highway option, and my map showed rural roads. So I followed the "country" route and Sandra followed the highway.

I had so much fun! Walked along country roads wide enough for a single car in a lot of places. After a bit, a cyclist joined me and we must have chatted for 20-30 minutes. He was barely pedalling and our conversation jumped all over the place - cycling, highlights of the camino, time allocated for the walk, etc. The best story was about his dinner companion last night. Ireland was in Rabanal and met a young woman who was walking along late in the day. She was concerned about finding a place for the night and it worked out that they ended up in the same albergue. He struck a deal with her that he would buy the groceries if she would cook. Somehow the fellow that ran the albergue got involved and soon she was cooking dinner for 6. The fellow at the albergue knew about the pilgim's blessing at the local church, run by monks. The young woman  went to the service, spoke to the monks and was now staying with them for 2 days! Apparently what she wanted to try but did not know how to about it! :-) Connections!  I never did get the cyclist's name!

I caught up to two older women from Barcelona and as we seemed to be the only walkers at that point started chatting. One of them could speak English and translated for the other. They are only going as far as Sarria this walk. They started pointing out features of Ponferrada, including the castle and cathedral that we could see in the distance. I told them that I was sleeping in the castle tonight and after the translation and laughter, they started calling me Princess Camino! :-) I invited them to dinner at the castle and then one of them danced! Laughing our heads off we carried on to the city where the paths again divided. I went right, they left. Those two ladies from Barcelona made the last few km such fun! :-)

When we reached the point where the paths divided I barely caught the gold sign showing albergues to the right. I did go off the main road  a couple of blocks but realized it was wrong and went back. I then saw 2 pilgrims so followed them from across the street. I came to an intersection and a tiny tiny older lady stopped me and said "albergue?" She then waved me across the street and then there was the albergue! :-)  I rounded the corner and in the gate and there was Sandra!  It was 1:08pm.

We waited until 2ish, checked in, got our beds (4 bed dorm, all women! Hopefully zero snorers!:-)) sorted the gear and then the laundry. Sandra went out for dinner and then potentially sightseeing, I opted to find a beer and then a supermarket!:-) I did just that! Found a beer and ate the best roasted almonds ever! Then found the supermarket, pasta and wine for dinner, supplies for tomorrow! 

One more climb!

Day 15- Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

We were up early this morning,  lots of noise as pilgrims got moving and got their breaky. The floor boards between my bed and the breakfast room had gaps, some which you could clearly see people and furniture! Everything held though and more than likely it was the smell of toast that got me going! :-)

Today's walk  includes the beginning of a climb up to 1500 m and then a descent down to 500m.  See the graph in the photo below. It shows the the next couple of days including the highest point on the Camino. We are currently at the yellow symbol half way or so up the biggest spike on the graph! :-)

This morning we had decided to check out the bus options for the first leg, and walk the rest. We headed to the bus station only to find out that there were no buses along this stretch, so plan b. A fellow outside the station called a taxi for us! :-) 10 km later we were in El Ganso. Now we start walking. Walk through a village that had obviously seen better days and as we pass an an albergue we see that the lights are on. Sandra opens the door and we meet Canadians from Montreal and Smithers! Have our own coffee, so we heat up some water and have a break! :-)

After the village we head along a roadside path past scrubby trees and lots of heather. Eventually we opt to walk along the road and pretty soon we come to a planted stand of trees.  The trees were planted in hills sort of like like potatoes and in the troughs between them was obviously the pilgrim bathroom break. Really disgusting! I have to say that is one of my dislikes along the walk, all the people evidence left behind! Such a shame!

We carry on, meeting both walkers and cyclists. Buen Camino! is the common greeting! :-)

After a gradual climb we arrve in Rabanal del Camino, really pretty. A walled town, very quiet when we arrived. We found our albergue pretty quick and as we were early arrivals got our pick of beds. After a bit we wandered and found the churches, a bit of grocery store, other albergues and restaurants.  The town is pretty quiet until the evening, so hung out with some pilgrims from Australia, UK, Bulgaria, Holland and the US. Lots of chatter about tomorrows climb!  After a bit we found a second shop and added some tuna empanada and some red wine to our dinner menu. 

Chillin' for the rest of the evening and then bed!

Villadangos del Paramo to Astorga

Definitely an interesting 24 hours! :-)  First off my sleep was not the greatest,  I managed to snag a bed between those that could absolutely snore the BEST!  Full concert at 1:36am!  I was awake for good at 5:45 so thought I would quietly get up and have a coffee. By the time I got out of my blankets the dorm was moving. Still dark once I am ready, my flashlights completely udderly suck, therefore I am stuck until there is more light!  A lot of the pilgrims had gone by now so I said "screw it" and left. I had not even gone a block when this woman not too far in front of me turned around and asked me if this was the right way. I had checked it out yesterday and knew that the arrows veered right so said" nope this way". She then joined me and amazingly enough turned on a flashlight! :-) Thank you very much!!!!! :-)  We walked 5km in what seemed like no time! Lots of stories, laughs and great energy! Nancy from San Fransico was a good start to the day!

Caught up with Sandra at cafe, had the mandatory cafe leche and got my crendentials stamped. Met Pablo from Argentinia via Barcelona who demonstrated his contraption for pulling a cart with a chest strap which carried his pack! Saw the London folks and a few others and then we were off. We headed to the town of  Hospital de Orbigo with the goal of making it to Astorga.

The path took us along the highway for the most part. Lots of irrigation canals and a crazy amount of rose hips. Everywhere I looked more orange! Winter is coming! :-) We reached the town by about 10:30ish. As we approached the centre of town we came across a medieval bridge which was mind boggling,  We all had to stop because there was another bike race coming across the bridge! The story of the bridge is pretty interesting.... Apparently in the 1400's there was a knight who was upset cause his lady rejected him, so he put an iron collar around his neck as a sign that he was still shackled to her. He vowed to keep the collar on until he had broken 300 lances in fights on the bridge with the best knights in Europe. The tournament took place, he eventually reached his 300-lance target. Taking off his collar he journeyed to Santiago with his lady's jewelled bracelet. Apparently, the bracelet now encircles the neck of the statue of Santiago in th Cathedral.  Anyway, I took a bunch of photos as it was pretty darn cool and I will look for that bracelet in the cathedral!

We checked out the church,  figured out the bus direction and started walking. After a bit I noticed an open door with "Centro de Tourismo". Well it is Sunday pretty much everything is closed so we went in. :-) It was apparent that it was a boutique kind of hotel/b&b once we were inside. Very nice, lots of character and a  lovely courtyard. A lady came and greeted us and said we could look around. Gave us postcard type flyers, let us walk through and check out the backyard.  Sandra took some photos and after we thanked her she washed and packaged up some plums for us!  How nice was that!

Up the street around the corner, found the bus stop with another pilgrim. He was from Barcelona, had hurt his knee and after two rest days was off to join his friends in Astorga- so we got on the right bus! Another good connection!

Astorga is very pretty! Lots of stone, old walls, amazingly huge cathedral,  a Bishop's palace and lovely small streets. We found the tourism office and got the directions to the albergue.8€ for a bed in a room with 10 beds, showers are reasonable, kitchen works - perfect! I dump my gear, we track down Sandra's and then we set off exploring! One strange thing with the albergue is that on our balcony is a knapsack and hiking stick zap strapped to the railing. Sandra does eventually ask about it, and a pilgrim apparently gave his pack to the albergue as a thank you for helping him through 7 sick days! So they use it as street advertising - strange but true!  It is  now 1ish, everything shuts down at 2 and I am hungry! We find a place that makes burgers! Yippee! Beer, burger and spicy potatoes. Almost heaven! :-)

After a snooze and a cup of tea we are off to see the Pilgrim's Museum, however soon find out that all of the cultural sights are closed until Tuesday! We wander and find  a cafe where men are playing dominos and chess. They let me take their picture with lots of laughter and then we wander on. We found a table in the sun with a glass of wine and then headed back to the albergue. Cup of soup for dinner and then bed!

Day12 Leon to Villadangos del Paramo

We left this morning about 8am and with a plan! The plan was to walk to Valverde de la Virgin and stay the night there. Well, we walked through some pretty streets in Leon (no garbage, streets are washed everyday, etc.) and then we were walking through the "working man's"area (lots of low rise apartments,  empty shops, rail yards, dirty streets and men drinking beer at 8:30 am)! We ran into a couple of pilgrims who were from London, Ontario. They knew Glencoe and apparently had met some other pilgrims from Mt. Brydges! It's a small world!:-)

After walking along for a bit we walked up a funky foot bridge over the train tracks. It was built kind of in platforms, you walk uphill it levels then uphill it levels and so on until the top and then down the otherside! We were passing throug the outer suburbs of Leon now and came upon some quirky bodegas. They look like bunkers built into the ground, with a front door, a chimney and covered with grass. Apparently, this is where wine is stored! I spoke to an old fellow who had stopped to chat as I was taking off some layers. He was waving his arms around saying something but I could only understand vino and bueno. I'd like to think that he owned one of those bodegas! :-)

We kept going and eventually were out of Leon and before too long in La Virgen del Camino. We found a cafe and I had a grande coffee leche, first one of the day so it had to be big! :-) There was a sign on the building that said 340 km to Santiago! We got our passports stamped and water bottles filled and headed off again.  After about 3 km or so we reached Valverde de la Virgen. We passed a church that had stork nests on the bell towers, cool photo op!  Before we realized we had walked through the town so we decided to look for a bus stop while walking the next couple of km to San Miguel del Camino. I asked a cafe for directions to the bus stop and the felllow showed us which way but was not sure of bus times. Left the cafe but could not find the bus stop. Soooooo. keep walking!

It looked the path was going to run  uphill right along the highway and on pavement, neither one of us were too keen on that! We had gone maybe 75 m or so and then the path veered off so no more pavement! :-) The path was gravel so not to bad walking overall. After walking for 20 min or so, a chair had been conveniently placed by the path and in the shade! I took it as a sign to have lunch! Sandra was not far behind, she had stopped to take off her boots, and when she caught up I was finished and it was her turn in "The Chair"! :-) We decided that it would make sense if I went ahead and got us beds for tonight as both of us are worried that the albergues would be full. I left Sandra eating her bread and cheese, sitting in the shade!

The path is right next to a busy highway so the noise is there. I got tired of the Whoosh Whoosh, so turned on my ipod. Singing along to old country tunes made me pick up the pace and I was at the albergue at 2pm. Booked our beds and am now waiting for Sandra!

I had sent Sandra an email telling her where her bed was but in the meantime she had sorted out a ride and was 5km ahead of me in the bext town. Too late to walk so am here in Villadangos del Paramo in the Municipal Albergue. After showering, laundry  and sorting my gear am off to explore. Very small town with a busy truck route going through. Crazy speeds! Anyway, I found what must be the Spanish equivalent of our legion! Too funny! I swear average age 97! :-) Old folks, all watching the cycling race or gambling at slots! So I did find a beer but took it outside, found a pilgrim who had found the grocer, downed the beer and went food shopping. You do not mess around on a Sat. night, in a small town, in Spain when pretty much everybody is running to Mass! Who knows how long any stores would be open! :-)

The grocery store was efficient! I foung supplies for the morning and splurged (Stu you will be so proud!) on a 1€ pouch of cabanarra noodles! So,  a mini baguette, a split of wine and back to find a kitchen. Geez the stoves here are complicated! Sorted it out cooked my noodles, found some dinner companions, all is good! One guy from Italy said as soon as I sat down "that is not cabanarra"! :-) We had a good laugh! Had dinner with 3 Canadians and Mr. Italy!  Had a fun dinner! Lots of stories and laughs. Off to find my bed!

Burgos to Leon Sept 13th

Experienced the first "all night" party night last night in Burgos. Awake at 2:30am to a noisy concert of music, singing and yelling. One fellow obviously was the star attraction as I could hear him above everyone else! :-) Sounded like a lot of fun, however my bed was warm so I stayed put!

This morning it is official, I have now worn every piece of clothing in my bag!  Temperatures have dropped to 12 degrees or so with wind so making me layer up. Sandra is for the most part still walking around in short sleeves! :-) 

We have walked back to the bus stop and now are waiting, I have found a cafe and am content people watching! After a bit, I find the local market. Once inside I found Nemo! :-) check out the photo! We chat to a few pilgrims and finally we are on our way!

Arrived in Leon about 2pm. We found a hostel on our way to the old town. Dumped our gear and went exploring,  siesta time though, so we wandered and then got some food. Around 4ish I left Sandra at the cathedral and went wandering. Spent a quiet afternoon, will go looking for food supplies shortly and then call it a night and curl up with my book!

Najera to Burgos

After much discussion we decided that our best plan of action was to take the bus to Burgos and then on to Leon. Our reasoning is that we are running out of time travelling at our current pace and we are not even half way! So.. a bus it is! :-)

We arrived in Burgos at 10:30ish, by the time we got our packs and found the ticket office we had missed the morning bus to Leon. Next bus today was not until 17:20. We decided to stay the night here, bought our tickets to Leon on tomorrow's 10:30 bus and went to find the Municipal albergue. We headed towards the Cathedral and after getting direction help from two very nice business men, headed over the bridge smack dab into a cycling race! Sponsor cars, tons of bikes, promo stuff, music, crowds, a gazillion police! Definitely a big event! We asked a policeman for directions however he could not help us as he was not from Burgos! Guess they brought in resources from outside the city.

We did get directions, and climbed around barricades, through crowds, up stairs and around the cathedral. Found the albergue and our first backpack lineup! The deal is that if you arrive before the albergue is open you leave your pack in a line to reserve your spot.  Today we were 44 & 45 of 150 beds.  We arrived about 11:35 or so and the albergue opened at 12. So we wait! Apparently the cafe across the street must have an issue with tired pilgrims as their sign said "no siesta"! :-) There was also a guy with the coolest backpack carrier!

Best price for a bed to date - 5€! Found our beds, unloaded and then off to explore. I did pop into the church part of the cathedral but am offically cathedralled out! So am sitting in a cafe with a cervesa while Sandra has gone into tour. :-)

Laundry is done! Time to explore... headed towards the castle however after halfway decided I really wasn't interested in climbing any more stairs today, so plan B. Headed back down the hill and found "the hub".  Lots of tour groups and pilgrims. Some locals but still to early for dinner. Found Sandra and we did a little food shopping and then beer.  We chatted to a couple from Ireland and I ate the most amazing tapas! I took pictures to see if I can recreate them at home! Soooooo good! :-) Then we found a pizza joint and ate the worst piece of pizza ever! I did finish it though! Got a picture of two young girls with a huge jar of Nutella.

We did a bit of a walk, got some interesting people photos, found a glass of wine and then bed!