Logrono to Najera

Yesterday's (the 11th) walk passed through some interesting areas first  through city streets, then a park,  an industrial area, a nature reserve and then along side a busy highway. The park was really quiet so early in the day. Mainly pilgrims and a few locals more than likely on their way to work. There was a fellow cutting grass, riding a tractor with a blanket on. The smell of freshly cut grass took me home! :-)  We carried on through an industrial area which was just that- lots of trucks, various manufacturing plants and lots of untidy stuff. We sound found the nature park which was great! Through the woods, around a lake and through what I think was an ecological reserve. We did find the one and only bathroom, which was tailored for pilgrims as it had rain shelter, food, washrooms and water.

Along the highway was a chain link fence where pilgrims had made crosses out of bits and pieces (including socks) and inserted them in the fence. Someone had even written "without pain there is no satisfaction". How appropriate to read after an uphill slog! The town was high on a hill and after a climb we found a cafe. We stopped for coffee and snacks and chatted with a group of folks/pilgrims. A couple from Florida (the fellow looked like Alan Alda and I asked him if he had ever been mistaken for him,  he said up until about 10 years ago he was approached a least once a day and he had even signed autographs! :-) ), a fellow from Wisconsin (sorry Doris he didn't know where Wilson, WI was), our friend from Victoria, and a few others.  The cafe was an interesting mix  of someone's rock and roll memories. There were music references everywhere, even a guitar under glass in the floor! Lots of  skeltons and ghost like figures and horse shoes - go figure! They made good coffee though! :-)

After a boost of coffee we headed out  and wandered through the town and found the church. We had a look inside, took a few photos and moved along. We had decided the night before that we would decide after we reached Navarrette if we would walk the next 10km or get creative.  It was 11:30ish so we thought we would ask where to catch the bus to Najero. We found a hotel and asked a young lady and both of us thought we had clear directions.  We were to continue down the Camino, through town a long way. Turn right, cross the highway and there would be a shelter. Sounds easy enough!

We walked through the town, along the road, until the path. No right turn so far! We could see the highway though so kept going. After a couple of km we came to a paved road which looked like it would take us to the highway. After much dithering on my part (I did not relish the idea of walking a couple of km off of the path and then having to walk the distance back), we followed the road. It took us to a roundabout where we could look over the highway. We could not see a shelter and were discussing options when a car stopped. Javier took us to the albergue in Najero in approx 15 min! He was a newly retired fellow in a perfectly cleaned car. He  apologized for his lack of English saying it had been 40 years since he had taken lessons! He tried to teach us some Spanish words but I am not sure how many actually stuck in my head!

We were at the wrong albergue so sorted out directions and went looking. Found our bed for the night. After dropping off our packs we found a beer and then a church! Sandra went off for a rest and I went to explore. I didn't get very far before I ran into some faces I recognized! Had a good chat with Anne from Baltimore over some nice red wine and then back for a siesta. We went exploring after our rest and found the Church of Santa Maria. Very old and beautiful! We spent about an hour there and I took quite a few photos of the building with light and shadows. While waiting outside for Sandra I chatted to a fellow from Spain who was starting his walk from here the next day. He had done various sections already including a two week walk this past March. He had the best description I have heard about the Camino so far; simply "magic"!

We found a shop for food supplies and then dinner. A feast of green bean salad and ham, grilled trout, flan, wine and bread. Then back to find my bed. Chatted to some pilgrims, seems like the Canadian contingent is staying here, folks from Canmore, Alberta and Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Found warm clothes and bed.

After a good warm sleep I am up early, 5:30. We will sort out our plans shortly and be on our way!

Rest Day in Logrono

We left our "private" room in Los Arcos this morning about 8am and headed to the bus stop. Kinda feeling a bit sheepish as we were skipping the walking today but felt much better once we got to the bus stop as there were other pilgrims there. More and more came as we waited and soon there was lots of "would you mind watching my bag while I grab a coffee" !  One of the young girls waiting had been to the doctors and had a foot infection that would keep her off the Camino for 3 -4 days! Once we were on the bus there were quite a few familar faces and alot with injuries -one fellow with knee trouble, others with foot issues and on it went. We had a 20 minute or so ride and then we were in the city.

We were walking along with 5 other pilgrims and a young lady asked if we needed help with directions. It turned out she was working at one of the albergues and was positive that we could leave our bags there until they opened at 1pm. Another awesome coincidence, here we were at 10ish in the morning with a bed booked, pack stored and able to explore!

We checked out some of the sights and just outside of a church met some IItalians we had met earlier. After a good chat we said our goodbyes and I completely messed up the kissing on both cheeks! :-) The lady grabbed my head and kissed a swack of times, all on one cheek, laughing and shaking her head! It was pretty funny!  :-) We then  found a calendar in the pavement detailing the stops along the Camino and lots of good photo ops. We decided on food and found  a kebob place for lunch and of course I ate more than I needed! It was so good though! After we ate we went in separately to pay. The fellow asked Sandra if she liked to read and then he gave her "The Book of Mormon" in Spanish!  We had a good giggle and then headed back for a siesta.

Our albergue is really good, newish, clean, great showers and central. We met a bunch of folks, had a cup of tea and then headed out. We did a bit more exploring and found food supplies and then had a quiet evening. Sandra is nursing some new blisters so we will walk tomorrow as long as they cooperate.

Los Arcos - Day 7

Dinner last night was great! We sat at long tables with pilgrims from all over.  We ate paella and drank wine and compared journeys and shared stories. So much fun!  Met a woman from Brighton, England who had blisters so bad that she was walking in her flip flops! Geez she was lucky she still had her toes! I have been carrying a pair of "fake" crocs, have only used them once or twice so gave them to her. At least her toes would be covered! We met another fellow from Ireland, probably in his 60's or so that looked a mess! He had a big black eye and cuts all over his face. Apparently he had taken a tumble going up a hill with his back pack on and wearing glasses. Five stitches later and broken glasses! There were some cyclists from Calgary & Scotland, some other walkers from Japan, Spain and France.

Left the albergue about 8am, ready for the day! We knew that the first part of the day would have us climbing about 200 m. The first village we come to is Irache where there is a fountain which has both water and wine. Alas there is no wine, :-(, we take photos and carry on.  We come across a cisteron apparently built in Islamic  times. Pretty amazing that it is still in use. We had a fairly easy morning, approx 9km, and got to our planned overnight stay at 11:20ish. After an ice cream and a refill of water we made the decision to press on. The next town/village/ populated area was a measly 12km downhill. We can do that, lots of breaks planned, check our water and we are off! 

We walk through farmland, not too big of a downgrade, the path is pretty good. But it keeps going and going! Looks like we will round a curve and be done but nope another field! We  have found a type of rhythm,  I seem to like the hills and  move along, I wait until I can see Sandra and then I head off again. I walk with a couple from Ireland and 3 people from France. I finally get to the next town, Los Arcos at 4:15ish. Sandra had sent her bag ahead so we knew where we would meet. I get to the albergue but there are no beds. They have Sandra's bag and have beds for us for tomorrow night.  The woman at the reception said that she would have Sandra wait there until I came back, so am off looking for beds. All albergues are full, pension #1full, hostel #1 full, hotel full, the second hostel yippee we can have one room with 2 beds! Kicker is it will double our nightly budget. Too bad I take it! :-) Dumped my pack and poles and go to find Sandra. I find her as she is just about at the albergue that we originally booked. We leave her pack where it us and find the hostel. Yay my boots can come off!!!!

Sandra is sound asleep so I shower and head out, found a beer (big) and a sandwich and explored a bit. After a big nap, explored some more, Sandra joined me and we found an amazing church, wall, gates, etc, A little breaky shopping and we found a cafe and a beer. Will be a great sleep tonight! :-)

We are in Estella

It was raining when we left this morning! Got to test out my borrowed rain jacket (thanks Jude!  It worked out awesome!:-)) Water cover for the backpack worked out too! Rain stopped not too long after we started and then it was mainly a cloudy day for walking. Lots of hills today and a couple of doozies! We found a bakery/cafe in the first town we came to, however the line up was huge so we kept going.

Met some new folks and caught up with folks we had met previously. Lots of stories including one from a woman from Edinburgh who can speak Polish. She was telling us that she had been plodding along and a couple of fellows passed her. As they passed she heard them reciting the rosary in Polish, she joined in as they passed praying in Polish. They looked at her but kept going. After climbing a hill and approaching a rest stop one of the fellows came down to her and asked if she and her friend would like to join them at mass. The fellow was a priest and so Eva and Kate actually had mass, in polish, on a hilltop in Spain! How cool is that?

We walked over a medieval bridge and then what is left of a Roman road.  It was awesome to actually be walking where so many others had gone before, however walking was difficult as the road was really uneven. We eventually came to a part that had been washed out. A bit of a sketchy climb and I felt some new muscles kick in! Am glad that that bit is over!

We finally found our albergue about 4:30 yesterday. We were beat! It is in a building that looks like a school attached to a church. No bunk beds, cots instead! Had dinner (really good!) here although not until 8pm, so no bed until 10 or so.

Puente la Reina

This morning was grey and dreary but at least the rain had stopped! I started the day a bit concerned about the descent from Alto de Perdon. Apparently a steep decent with loose gravel, which didn't sound like much fun in the rain. We were on our way at 7:45 and the walk was a gradual incline for approx 2km.  A bit steeper on the last climb to the top. I did let out a yelp when I got to the top! So far no rain! No great strain, a perfect hour and bit walk! :-)  It was windy up there! The plaque said that we were at 700 m above sea level. We took some photos and then got out of the wind.

The walk down was steep and over loose stones. We did hear thunder so after a bit I stopped and got the rain cover on my bag and a buff over my ears. We continued down and finally were on a gentler grade.We stopped for a cup of tea in Uterga an continued on thru Muruzabal, both which were in my opinion were strangely quiet for a Saturday.  We arrived in Obanos and had a bit of a break. I was too slow with my camera... Sandra is not really keen on dogs and she decided to sit on a bench by a wall where she could enjoy her sandwich with her feet up. A little white dog came behind her, front feet on her back, trying to get her sandwich. She didn't scream, she covered up her shock and annoyance as the owner was right there. Next thing, I hear her asking "what's the dog's name?".  I was laughing so hard.  :-) She did well!

We left Obanos and were soon at Puente la Reina. Found our albergue, decided against the big dinner and went to find the supermarket. Am stocked up with road food and lunch /dinner. All is good! :-)

We covered 15 km today in 4 hours and 15 minutes. Will be increasing the km as Sandra's feet are getting better! 

Zaraiquiegui

After a good dinner with our Irish friends we  left Pampalona abot 9:15.  It had rained during the night so everything was fresh! After an hour and a bit we reached the out skirts of town and took a bit of a break. A bit more and then we were off of the pavement!  The route to Czir Mentor passed by the University grounds and then rolling hills. We arrived at the albergue rather quickly it seemed and chatted to a fellow from France who was walking the Camino for the second time. Sandra took pictures of the church and we decided to press on.

The hills were getting steeper and the views very pretty. Old churches and settlements, abandoned villages, fairly steep climbs. We could see a massive haystack in the distance which I was excited to get to. Have seen pictures of hay stacked like this and for me it was a "I really am here" moment. A little further on and we came to a field of sunflowers which had faces on them. A Swedish coupke had set up two plants with their hats and poles to resemble hikers. Sandra got a photo, I was still hung up with the haystack! :-)

We passed locals, or better yet, they passed us along the way. There even was a lady probably in her 70's just hoofing it along. Lots if cyclists, walkers as well as joggers. Approx. two km from the town of Zaiquigui (sp) there was a rest stop at the top of a steep grade which had a memorial for a Belgium fellow who died on the Camino in 1987. We have seen a number of these so far - makes one think!

We arrived at the albergue at 1:45 or so. We had walked 14.5 km and it had taken us 4.5 hours.

We checked in, I dumped my back and drank the coldest beer ever! :-) It was hot! After chatting and a shower, a siesta was definitely in order...

Relaxed, explored the small town and then it was dinner time. We signed up for the pilgrims menu which was at our albergue. No idea of the menu!:-) We ended up with 2 kinds of soup, bread, salad, a fish stew, meat patties, ice cream and wine. One girl from the States had her birthday yesterday and the singalong last night was limited to singing Happy Birthday to her! :-)

Throughout dinner there was a big electrical storm! All my laundry and boots were in my room. Some of the others not so lucky!  Off to bed by 8:30.

Getting Caught Up / Formatting Issues / Atrocious Spelling!

Just got caught up with some posts that did not work earlier. Pls excuse the spelling mistakes, I do know better, just getting comfortable with the dang keyboard on the tablet! Also the formatting is intermittently wacky, haven't figured that out yet.