Conclusion of My Camino

Am in the midst of the journey home, and am busy reviewing an amazing month of memories! After a 28 day pilgrimage covering 790 km and (what will be) 5 days of travel to and from Spain, what I freshly learned and re-learned will continue to inspire me........

1) Walking 600km is no easy feat (excuse the pun)! It was physically hard, took commitment and focus and mental stamina.
2) Most people are generous, happy and funny!
3) Walking in the rain can be fun!
4) If hungry, eat; if thirsty, drink; if tired, rest!
5) Patience!
6) I am stronger than I think!
7) Knapsacks do stink after days of constant wear!
8) Music lifts my spirits.
9) Do not be afraid to ask!
10) When disappointed,  leave it behind.
11) People are the connection!
12) Hearing birds chirping and singing makes me happy
13) Things are just objects.
14) I absolutely detest wet boots!
15) Don't judge a book by its cover
16)  There is no place like home!

I met many interesting people, some I could not even imagine how they even started never mind continued! Saw beautiful scenery, disappointing garbage evidence and felt moved every single day if not every hour!

Would I do it again?  I heard more than once that the Camino gets under your skin and you cannot help but come back! Right now I am convinced that once along this road is enough! Time to BE at home!

Buen Camino! :-)

Santiago

After dinner last night we are all back at the albergue, each doing our own thing! A fellow came in and had a bottle of wine. I noticed him but didn't pay alot of attention.  He was using a bowl as a glass and finished the wine in short order and went upstairs. He added quite a bit of excitement to the place as he banged his head and fell out of bed a couple of times! :-) Anyway by the time I headed to bed he was sound asleep. More adventures during the night though ... the fellow was clearly disoriented; he ended up downstairs in the sitting area, then in a different dorm, then tried to get in the wrong bunk (thank goodness not mine). :-) Saw him a few times this morning and he just greeted us and carried on!

Today started off wet but eventually sunny and stayed that way until we reached Santiago, got our paperwork sorted out and found a bed. Then rain! We headed out but first stopped for coffee and a crossiant. Tim from Texas joined us at the start of  the day! Interesting fellow... car dealer dude in Texas, 2 kids, married, walking for the challenge and to show his kids that they could set a goal at any age and complete it!  He set a pretty aggressive pace right from the start and although I was sweating big time I kept up! We finished almost 9km by almost 10am! I felt great although my pack seemed way heavier today. My book says that the last day into Santiago was relatively flat... not so! There were some big hills! We stopped for ice cream and a credential stamp and then headed up a big hill! Couldn't really complain though as the ice cream was covered in chocolate and almonds and I took it slow! :-)

The path today was busy! Lots of familiar faces and some folks who were just in a big hurry! Tim kicked up his pace and left us behind and we carried on. Through villages and country lanes we finally reached a little cafe - I was definitely in need of a sit down!:-) We went in and got our drinks and then listened to an English lady give the owner trouble over his attitude! Once all the noise had settled down and the English folks had left, the owner dude showed us me on the map where we were and talked about the tradition of putting coins on the stone walls in a house or in this case the cafe. He was nice to me/us!:-)

We got our gear back on and started off again! Now we knew we had approx. 4km to Monte do Gozo and then another 5km to Santiago.We reached Monte do Gozo about 12, and stopped for a bit of a break. Lots of folks here as this was a stop for the tour buses!  Not far out of Monte do Gozo we saw a sign that said 4.7km to Santiago (apparently this means to the cathedral).

Gosh this was a long 4.7 km! Anticipation a factor for sure, along with tons of pavement walking and tons of up and down! We reach the outskirts of the city and walk along cobblestone streets which sometimes were narrow and then finally into the city proper. Lots of traffic but not a lot of knapsacks in sight! The signage was pretty clear though so on we went. We see the steeples eventually and make our way to the back/side of the cathedral. I ask another pilgrim, just to be sure, and we were right around the corner! We sat for a minute and then decided to line up for our certificate and stamps so that it was done. We got directions, rounded the corner and there was the plaza. I was actually shocked as there were hardly any pilgrims or people in the plaza! All of the info that I had read or heard led me to believe that there would be masses of people milling about. We took pictures and then headed to the pilgrim office. Again, I was surprised as the line up was maybe 30-40 pilgrims deep, definitely not the hundreds or thousands that I anticipated! I/we stood in line and chatted. The fellow in front of me was from England and had walked about 100km with his wife and a group. His adventures were quite different from mine as they stayed in 4/5 star hotels, one with a pool, drank wine and ate great food! Nice fellow! As we waited, Tim came down the stairs certificate in hand, we wished each other well and away he went! Finally my turn! Got my stamps, and my certificate with my name in Latin!  It was around 2pm.

We now needed to find beds! Chris from Ireland had recommended Hotel Suso so we went looking, Were approached 3 different times to try an albergue, a pension and a hostal. We decided to check out a hotel which was way to much money, and they gave us the directions to Suso!  Very close and I have my own room, tiny but who cares  - the door locks!:-)

After dumping our gear and cleaning up we found great tapas! We snacked and then went exploring! Have to go to the cathedral and the plaza, etc! The girls and I separated ways after agreeing to meet at 8 at our hotel and then we would go for dinner! I checked out the church, put my hands on the pillars where many had before me and took photos of the huge incense burner! I also explored the  Museum and the strolled to find water for tomorrow! I was a little further from the hostal than I had planned and of coursethen the rain came! No boots on, just flip flops and definitely a challenge walking - so slippery! Anyway, made it back to the albergue without wiping out! :-)

Meet Pam and Terry and they have brought along Brigitte from Colorado! Interesting lady - retired, travelling the world and will eventually go to their family vineyard and winery in California and work at increasing their wine production. She just completed the Camino  and has 4 days to wait for her husband and then they are off to Turkey!  Dinner was so much fun and the latest I have been up since starting the Camino. We ate more but different tapas, drank wine and then changed restaurants and had more wine! We met folks from Santiago and Mexico and one young lady who had great memories of a long ago trip to Victoria's Minature World!

We said our goodbyes and I was in my room at 12:30!

Tomorrow the journey home! :-)

Aruza To Arca

Back at the albetgue, met an Irish fellow from Belfast. Had a good chat with him  and then the girls were ready. Our plan was to find a grocery store and have dinnner at the albergue. It was not to be! Late Sat. afternoon, stores are closed, so restaurant it is!:-) We went to the restaurant attached to our albergue! Pizza, french fries, crappy glass of wine and a beer = great dinner!:-) Chatted to an Irish couple and then found our beds.  Last saw the time at 8pm.

Not a great sleep last night! Sat. night in the big town, makes for a lot of strange noises!  At least the room door had a lock! :-) I was awake early, but as there was no where to go quietly, stayed put. We are all up and ready, found coffee and all is good!

We had walked about a block down a side street to get to the main road, we all were talking when Pam started laughing... apparently I say "yah, yah yah" a lot! :-) We laughed our heads off and kept walking!:-) To bad we had not gone a little further into town.. very pleasant! And to think we stayed in the "ugly outskirts" according to my book! :-) Soon we walked off of the main road onto dirt tracks! Walked in cloud and mist, hills but not near as bad as previous days! Eventually rain, no rain, sunny patches and then (dang it!) pouring rain!

Finally a little village with a cafe! An omlette and the best cafe con leche to date, and I am good to go! We walk through wooded areas, small roads, through hamlets and cross the highway a couple of times. Now it is really raining!

We reach a little town called Brea and I am soooooooo ready for a sit down and something to drink! Why does my knapsack feel heavier in the rain? I have a rain cover so the contents are dry! Anyway a cup of tea will fix me up! We find a table and join three Irish ladies. Chat for a bit and dry out!  Then a group of guys came into the cafe and said they needed help! We all were "what do you need?". One fellow said that it was his mom's birthday (she is Canadian and lives in Texas) and he would like it if we could all sing Happy Bithday to her! Of course we could! :-) So this fellow videos the folks in the cafe belting out Happy Birthday to Helen in Texas! Fun! :-) Tim from Texas, good heart!

We head out again and are in Rua, when there is Alex! We chat to him and tell him that our goal is Arca. He says "2km away! Keep going, you will come to a junction, go left, up the hill", I think "are you kidding me? Not another hill!" He also suggests we go into the tourism office and get the map for Santiago. So we do!  We hear others talking about booking reservations, rooms are full, so we try! The fellow in the office tries to call a few places for us -no luck! He tells us to go 200m to Aviro and they will have rooms! So we do.

This place wants 50 € for a room for 2. It was a setup with a sitting room and kitchen. I suppose I could of slept on the couch, but..... Anyway, said to the girls that I chose to continue on, up to them what they wanted to do. I gave them space and walked out to the road. They decided to go on ahead as well.

Uphill into Arca!  We check out a pension.. 1 room for 2 people, 55€, hmmmmmmm. Moving along!  I recognized a young couple that stayed in the same place as us last night, they said they were staying at albergue edreira, we saw the signs and headed that way. A fellow caught up to us and it was Tim from the cafe earlier. We followed the signs and 10€ for a bed. Clean, newish - am good!

After cleaning up and waiting for the rain to let up, the four of us headed for food. For me, melon and spanish ham, fish and chips and beer.

Quiet night! Santiago here I come!

Azura - Day 26

Crazy night last night! We found beer, snack food and then dinner. Dinner was dismal! Looked like a good possibility, but alas no. It was pouring, thunder and lightening and we are off to find the grocery store! Found the yogurt, bananas and red wine!  :-) Headed back to the albergue and found the kitchen; lots of stories and giggling! Around 6ish head for quiet time and bed! There are 2 new fellows in our room. One sound a sleep in the bunk over mine and the other getting his bed ready.

I woke up with a start to my bed moving! The fellow on the top bunk had decided that it was time to put sheets on his bed (even though everyone else was asleep and the room dark) and was having difficulty! After lots of noise, banging, and him sighing heavily he decided it was a good idea to take his mattress off! Geez Louise! Anyway, I had had enough and got up and helped him! He kept saying "sheets don't fit", My patience was leaving me! I was saying "oh yes they will!", as each of us are putting the corners of the sheets on the dang mattress while holding it off of the floor! What a gong show! :-) Finally it is done, he thanks me and goes to bed! Pam (from Montana) is killing herself laughing! It was 8:36pm.

Heard the rain in the night and was so hoping we would have a break tomorrow! Am up at 6:30, albergue is pretty quiet. My clothes are still wet so find the dryer!  After a slow start we are  finally off! Wet start to the day, warm though! Walked through pretty countryside, found a cafe, warm coffee!:-) A little further on a road stand selling fruit, even raspberries! 1€ for approx. 1/2 cup! Carried on! Up hills, down hills, more uphill! Rain stopped, sky is still cloudy although a tiny bit of blue!  The walk is long for me today! It could be my lack of sleep last night! :-)

Am walking with the US girls, a pilgrim from Vermont, and 4 from Spain. We stop and get water at a tiny cafe at the bottom of a hill. The path has been along a paved road (am not liking the walking on pavement bit) and we now have a big hill and then a steady incline into Arzua! We keep walking and after winding past some nice looking homes we are now in suburbia. It is starting to rain again and we opt to find a bed! The first albergue and pension we find are full! The second has beds, so a quick discussion and Montana, Idaho and I are sharing a room with three beds! Quite the maze to get to our room, up stairs, across a terrace, through a restaurant, out the front door, in the door right next and up,more stairs! Shower, laundry, nap now off to find food. Find a restaurant, have some boring soup and bread. It rained and rained, stopped long enough to look for a grocery store - closed and get back under a roof!  Back at the albergue.

No pictures today!

Airexe to Melide

Intersting day all around! Up early, alarms, double alarms, am not sure why folks set them! They are up with the crack of dawn anyway! :-)

Find the kitchen and tea and chat to 2 spanish fellows, of course Ireland Chris! , another couple from Spain, and a few Germans who are in a hurry!:-) Wait for light! It has rained during the night has stopped now but is dark dark dark!  Chris is ready to go and then asked the time; 6:09 by my clock! :-) We chat for a bit and he leaves. .....peace!  :-)

Soon all start moving, and it is time to get going! I tag with the girls again, we leave at 7:30ish.:-) It is stupid dark! I guess I tried to dare the weather, I have my gear but of course am not ready! Have to stop qnd put my tablet in plastic, my rain coat on, hat on, etc. I was smart enough to put the rain cover on my knapsack before we left but that was about it! Idiot! :-)

Anyway we walked in pouring rain pretty much  for the next couple of hours. Sooo much fun! :-( We reach Palas de Rei and stop at a cafe to dry out and fuel up! Saw some familiar face some I haadn't seen for a few days! As we are leaving three girls from the school group were in front of singing, so the three of us joined in and had a great round of supercalifragilistic (sp)! And the rain comes back! We walk with the rain downhill, along side some mini raging rivers, catch up with more students, more students catch up with us and on we go. We do catch up with a group that is being escorted by Alex who we met yesterday. We do see him at one point as well, nice and dry under a big umbrella waiting for his clients! :-)

We reach a 2nd cafe that has set up a huge tent outside, get the largest coffee I could and dry out a bit. We chat to a girl from Sweden who has been to Vancouver, is escorting a group of older folks and had great stories! She told us that she was picking up garbage along the path a few days ago and an old man thanked her, he then gave her a beautifully carved walking stick and asked her to take it to Santiago for him. He said that he was too old to go to Santiago and would be grateful! So Catherine from Sweden is doing just that - taking the walking stick to Santiago!

It is pouring, however we decide to continue on, suit up and away we go! Not too far and then a bit of sunshine and a lady selling bananas! Yippee! Terri and Pam start singing children's songs which I had forgotten about! That sure helped the long downhill slog! We reached the outskirts of Melide and walked about 4km along a gravel trail, came out on a cute little street and there was Alex! No umbrella this time! He gave us directions to the centre of town and some room choices. Away we went! Finally, albergues, stores, cafes, etc. We find an albergue - new, clean, noisy and in an old building. The staircase is amazing! Six bunks and I have a bottom bunk! Yay!

Laundry,  warm, dry clothes and food!

Good day but long! No pictures though!

Portomarin to Aixexe

Last night I was back in my bed reading and relaxing. This albergue was part of the "Red Alebergue" group. The first one of this group was in Logrono where the young lady stored our bags early and helped the girl from Germany with the huge blister problem. Anyway this is the second one affliated with this group that I have stayed with. This dorm had 132 beds of which there were about 20 beds taken. At about 6 give or take I was reading on my bed when there was a bit of noise, voices and laughter. Then louder and louder, and then WOW!  :-)  Soon it was apparent that there was a school group of young women and apparently they were staying here! So much for nap time!  Too funny as I was given what I thought was strict  dorm nstructions, boots outside, laundry outside, quiet, kitchen details,  no lights on before 7am, lights automatically out at 11:00, no noise after 11:00, etc., etc.  Anyway, it was just young voices, laughter,  louder, softer, louder, softer and I soooo needed a nap! After A bit they settled down and I napped!  Woke up at 10:15, lights went off at 11:00 and so did the chatter! :-)

Was awake early so snuck out to the common area to check email. There were already two ladies there in a bit of a fuss as there was the most annoying alarm like noise coming from the direction of the leg massage unit. Too early for me, I went to the furthest spot away from the noise! Anyway, after a very few minutes, one lady went over and checked and then came over and said that someone had plugged their phone in and it was their alarm!  It is a Camino rule that you don't touch another pilgrim's stuff, hence she left it. We listened to it for about 20 minutes or so more. One of the two teachers for the girls, who I had met earlier wearing her fluffy bathrobe (obviously not carrying her bag! ) finally came and shut it off, apologizing profusely! :-)

This morning was really foggy, low too! Hmmmmm not too hard of a decision to stay put until light and check the fog then. In the meantime, Idaho aka Terri got up and we chatted. I asked her if she minded if I joined her and Montana aka Pam until we were clear of the long dark path which apparently went for several km according to my book! No problem! :-) I did go out check the weather about 7:15ish and a couple from Ireland said that I was welcome to walk with them! Too dark for me, thanked them and I waited for the girls!

I had been concerned since reading my book yesterday about having to cross a "rickety" footbridge first thing, so dragged out my book and then suggested that we go back over the bridge we came across on yesterday and catch the trail from there. All agreed and we headed off! Down the lane, down 60 steps and across the bridge,  only to find out wrong bridge! The girls were great! We had a good giggle then headed back to the bottom of the steps, then down the road and across the "right" bridge! The "rickety" footbridge was to our right and was closes! All that worry for nothing!

The girls are my age and we passed the time in lively conversation! Funny enough, we were not far out of Portomarin when a young woman suddenly appeared and asked us for a donation! The 7.5/8 km (depending on whose book) passed quickly enough, although I have to say that I was tired this morning! We even passed through a part of the camino that was famous as an open air brothel in the 12th century!  We stopped for a snack at a picnic area,  reached a cafe and coffee in Ganzor, and moseyed on. Was absolutely not thrilled with any of the hills we found today! At one point had to climb and wind around and over the highway which was ugly! Found another cafe in Ventas de Naron where a cold coke was amazing!:-)

We travelled through a few small hamlets/villages and finally after 20km decided to find a bed.  Chris from Ireland greeted us and pointed us to where he was staying  and the albergue we were looking at, 18 beds, 6 were taken!  Six euros for a bed, shower and laundry. Restaurant across the road. Perfect!

Cleaned up and found a beer. Chatted to Chris and a young man Alex from th US. He has his own tour business here. The group he had today was 9 folks from Colorado; who would walk a few kmand then he would take them and their luggage in the support vehicle  to their hotel at night. Very interesting young man! Pam and Terri joined us and we girls decided on food! Yay!  I had the pilgrim's dinner and a side of amazing octopus! Am learning that Galicia, this region of Spain are famous for their octopus recipes! Two glasses of red wine and a nap was in order!:-)

Cute little village! Albergue's hostess is Maria, She is busy knitting in the corner and visiting with whoever couls speak Spanish! :-)

Good day!

Day 24 Leaving Sarria

Yesterday I ran into Conrad from Germany who I have not seen since Zubiri! He was the young fellow that had walked 43km on his first day which included going over the mountain! When I met him last he was weary, chatty and positive and after eating he was off to soak his feet in the river! I saw him as I started to wander, he was in the park area next to the church. I teased him about the amount of daily km and he said that he was averaging about 36km a day. He did do a 44km but only once! :-) Anyway, chatted for a bit and carried on around the corner and found Irish Chris sitting at a bar/cafe. His story earlier yesterday was that he had a phone call from his girlfriend in Berlin who told him that her brother was in Sarria. So he opted for the bus yesterday am and said they would carry on to Portomarin. Blarney!:-) Anyway, his story! :-) Said with him for a bit and a fellow from Denmark The next table had Tomas from Boston who was eating a cheeseburger, we chatted, I copied, added fries, and am pretty sure that made us best friends! :-) The guy is extra large, a lawyer, loud, funny, had an entourage with him!

After my burger and beer I went exploring, first down those 60 sixty steps! Checked out an outdoor store which was crazy expensive and had limited stock, and then went looking for the grocery store. Had not gotten too far when rain started, hmmmmmmm laundry was outside! Back I go up 60 blinkin steps, pull in my laundry and then decided I will pay the 4€ for breakfast rather than going again! Found a quiet corner and then bed!

Great snooze last night! Woke up this am at 7:15, roommates are cyclists so everyone slept in! No biking in the dark!:-) For me, a great start! No worries about not seeing!  Extra bonus- warm and zero rain! :-)  After coffee and fuel head out, gentle incline through town and then a crazy hill! Apparently, my coffee had not yet kicked in!  Sweater off and now the walk is great! Through fields and shady lanes, throug hamlets and villages and farm yards. I meet Montana and Idaho and we chat for a bit, (these girls found my Canadian flag bandana yesterday and then found me in Sarria to give it to me!) and I carry on!

A fellow I keep seeing catches up to me and we start chatting. He is French, from near Toulouse (sp), his backpack is bigger than me,  his name is John Vladimir (not the correct spelling!), he is walking to help him with something with his girlfriend (I didn't get all of the story), this is his 7th or 8th Camino, he is asking for food, coffee and milk along the way, and he needs a shower!  My caution radar was going off big time! Then he said he was going to Santiago to sell some natural drugs to the pilgrims! He then told me to be careful cause I didn't know what was around the corner! Hmmm, found some other pilgrims and  left him getting a coffee at a donation stand and then ran into him again when I stopped for coffee at a cafe! Found some others to walk with, haven't seen him for the rest of the day! Thank goodness!

I met a lady from New Zealand that started walking 50 days ago in France! She  was sitting with another lady from Australia. They both were jaded (their words) over this last bit, nothing new to see, same food, etc. Anyway, we chatted for a bit and then I was on my way, Gosh today was long! So many long downhills and so much pavement!  Am ready for some dirt paths! Second time I have been approached by women asking for a donation to help out deaf folks. The donation sheet is on a clipboard printed in Spanish and English and both times there were some names signed up. I didn't see any dollar amounts but I looked quickly and really did not stop. Anyway, I said no thanks and moved on.

Finally a sign that Portomarin was 3km away! Kept going and it is pretty much downhill on pavement! I pass a fellow that is going down sideways and suck it up! Finally the bridge and once across 50 blinkin steps! Up I go, find the albergue and a beer! It is 1:30pm.

After a bit of a rest and of course laundry! I have a sandwich at the albergue and decide I should explore a bit. This town is high on a hill having been moved in 1964 after the river was dammed. Found the town centre, naturally uphill :-), and wandered. One fellow I met at the table yesterday with Tomas from Boston, greeted me and we chatted a bit. The lady sitting with him I recognized as well. She told me to be careful of that John Vladimir dude and the two ladies asking for donations. So we compared stories and apparently the two donation ladies robbed some folks earlier today. Hmmmmm, tomorrow I will make sure I am with others! 

Back to the albergue, reading and sleep!:-)